Mary Chess
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Mary Chess[1] was a perfumer who made fragrances using all natural ingredients. Her company, the eponymous Mary Chess, was owned by Henri Garceau.

Biographical information[edit]
Grace Mary Chess was born in Louisville, Kentucky, the daughter of William E. Chess, who owned a local cordage mill. In 1907 she married Avery Robinson, also from Louisville and son of another Louisville mill owner, who had worked for her father after graduating from MIT. In 1920 Chess and Robinson left for London where Robinson was employed as treasurer to the Royal Philharmonic Society.[2] In London she became famous for her sculpted metal flowers which she sold to the Queen Mother. She founded the Mary Chess Company in 1932.[3]

While in London Chess sent her daughter Carley to study with Nadia Boulanger, despite the composer's pessimistic assessment of the girl's aptitude for music.[4] In the end Carley did not pursue a musical career but instead became a writer of children's books.[5]

Perfumes[edit]
Mary Chess started making perfumes in New York in 1932 after she was disappointed by the insipid aroma of a bottle of toilet water.[6] "She created all her perfumes herself, using natural ingredients."[7] By 1934 the Mary Chess name was becoming a proxy for fine women's perfume.[8]

Mary created many perfumes, of which arguably the most famous is Tapestry. Probably incomplete perfume list:[9]

1932 White Lilac
1932 Heliotrope
1932 Gardenia
1932 Desert Verbena
1933 Chessmen
1934 Tapestry
1934 Yram
1935 Floral Odeurs
1939 Carnation
1941 Elizabethan
1942 Strategy
1946 Song
1956 Souvenir D'un Soir
1958 Chivalry
1960 Tuileries
Unknown - Chess D'or
Just after World War II and continuing into the 1960s, a selection of Mary Chess perfumes was sold in glass bottles shaped like chess pieces.[10] Though expensive,[11] these sets proved popular.[12] The Wheaton Glass Company of Millville, New Jersey produced the glass bottles and pressed figural stoppers for Mary Chess from 1946 to 1948.[10]

References[edit]
Jump up ^ The Aromatic Women's History Guide (AWHG)
Jump up ^ Schmidtt, Martin (2004). "Catalog of Manuscripts in the University of Oregon Library". [908] Robinson, Avery, 1878-1965. University of Oregon. Retrieved 2009-11-12.
Jump up ^ The Perfume Companion
Jump up ^ Rosenstiel, Léonie (1998). Nadia Boulanger: A Life in Music. New York: W. W. Norton & Company. p. 209. ISBN 0-393-31713-7. Retrieved 2009-11-12.
Jump up ^ Dawson, Carley. Carley. "Headings List (Library of Congress Online Catalog)". Library of Congress. Retrieved 2009-11-12.
Jump up ^ Lancaster, Marie-Jaqueline (2005). Brian Howard: Portrait of a Failure. London: Timewell Press. p. 218. ISBN 978-1-85725-211-8. Retrieved 2009-11-12.
Jump up ^ Groom, Nigel (1997). The new perfume handbook. New York: Springer. p. 205. ISBN 978-0-7514-0403-6. Retrieved 2009-11-12.
Jump up ^ Hughes, Babette (1934). One egg: a farce in one act. New York: Samuel French, Inc. p. 89. ISBN 0-573-62376-7.
Jump up ^ eBay Guide by cleopatra*s_boudoir
^ Jump up to: a b "For Show Not Play: Glass Chess Sets". WheatonArts and Cultural Center. 2002. Retrieved 2009-11-12.
Jump up ^ Chess Life (United States Chess Federation) 19: 59. 1964 http://books.google....22mary+chess%22 |url= missing title (help). Retrieved 2009-11-12.
Jump up ^ Modern Packaging 23, 1950: 113–115 http://books.google....22mary+chess%22 |url= missing title (help), retrieved 2009-11-12
Categories: Perfumers

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